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Grasshoppers Make a Tasty TreatIn Kampala, there are street vendors everywhere. Men and women who stand along the side of the road and hawk their wares to anyone who happens to drive by (if you’ve seen the ladies who walk between the cars selling roses along Frying Pan Road and Route 28 in Virginia, imagine that times 50 on every street corner and you get the idea). Recently, there have been guys carrying Tupperware buckets selling little tin foil boxes. I asked one of my co-workers what they were selling, and they said “grasshoppers, they’re a delicacy.” Now, I was thinking she meant “string hoppers” - like the Indian food – but I was mistaken. She meant the little six legged critters with the big eyes that squish bigger than life on your windshield as you drive down the highway on a hot Nebraska summer’s day. I confirmed the meaning a few days later when one of the staff brought one of the tin foil boxes to the office. They heated a bowlful of delicacies up for me in the microwave, and waited for me to flinch. I didn’t. They actually were pretty tasty. Kind of nutty, and kind of crunchy. They remind me of something I’ve had before, but I can’t think of it. If I remember I’ll let you know.
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Riding Two Dudes on a Motorcycle Does Not Mean You’re GayThere are a few ways to get around Kampala if you don’t own a car – Hire a special hire (what we would call a taxi cab) – Take a taxi (what we would call a public bus). Special hires are expensive and I’m not nearly smart enough to figure out the taxi routes. That leaves me with one inexpensive and pretty straightforward option, which is taking a boda boda. A boda boda (or “boda” for short) is a motor cycle taxi that you can find on about any street corner. It is actually a cartel system of young men on beaten up 250 cc motorcycles, who will drive you almost anywhere for almost nothing. At first it felt a little awkward climbing on a motorcycle behind some guy I hardly new (I really don’t think knowing the guy would have made me feel any better). After I learned that you hold on to the back of the bike and not the guy’s waist it seemed less awkward. Now I don’t think twice about it. I still think twice when someone suggests that I share a boda ride with another guy. Three guys straddling the same short framed motorbike??? Even I have my limits.
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Plumbing Conducts ElectricityAs Amy has already posted, we are living in a wonderful guest house owned by a wonderful family, and we couldn’t be more blessed. That being said, the place has its quirks. One of those quirks is that the hot water pipes somehow manage to conduct a small charge of electricity. Not enough to kill you, or really even hurt you very bad. Just enough to freak you out when you’re standing in the shower and you reach to turn the hot water up and experience a shock somewhat similar to five times the shock experienced by licking a nine volt battery (if you’ve never done this, don’t – if your brother or sister has never done this, I highly recommend it). It also shocks you when you run the hot water while doing the dishes. Now, both my experience with the phenomenon and my host tells me that it doesn’t really hurt and it isn’t that big of a deal, but something deep down inside says electricity and water are not a good combination.
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The World Really Sees Us Through the Eyes of TelevisionI am really trying to spend a lot of time getting to know my staff, and part of that is just sitting around talking about nothing. In all of this mindless chit chat, I have really seen the power of American television, and how it shapes the way the rest of the world sees life in America. One of my African co-workers told me that she thought if you were black in America, you were likely in a gang, and if you were in a gang in America, you were definitely black. In another conversation, she commented about school shootings and how they were such an everyday occurrence in America. The source of both ideas – American television. What really got to me thinking about the second media-induced stereotype was that the day before she made the comment about school shootings, a Ugandan police officer got into a disagreement with a woman in a bar and opened fire, killing eight people. The story didn’t even make the front page of the paper here in Uganda, much less the American press. If that had happened in the U.S., it would have been a huge anomaly and it would have run at the top of every news cycle for six months. And the rest of the world would believe that all Americans live in fear of a dangerous and malicious police force.
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My Wife is a Sickly SaintWhenever you travel with someone, you learn something about that person. When you move overseas together you look somewhat deeper into their soul. I’ve learned two things about my wife in our recent move. First, I learned that her immune system is not built for travel. She is recovering from her fourth major illness in three weeks. Upset stomach, fever, cough and cold – you name it, she’s had it. Second, she is not about to let a severe fever and stomach cramps get her down. Through all of her ailments, she has kept a really good attitude. Only once that I can remember has she said that she is ready to pack it in. If I was as sick as she has been week in and week out, and if I had been forced to be locked in a guest house with our three lovely, innocent, well-behaved, obedient and ever-joyful children, I wouldn’t have just talked about packing it in. I just hope all the bacteria (and my kids) give up before she does.
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People Eat the Entire GoatThe major staple in Uganda is matoke, which is a pasty substance made of smashed bananas (not the sweet ones that you and I are used to). It isn’t that good, but what is good is the rice and stewed meat that you get with it at most Ugandan restaurants. Given how tasty the stewed goat was at a local restaurant, I was pretty excited when we ordered takeout goat (I realize that just sounds really strange) for the office. I was less excited when it arrived. Apparently, there are two types of stewed goat that one can order from this particular establishment. The first is just like any stewed meat – bite sized chunks of meat similar to cubed roast cooked in a really tasty broth. The second, which is what I received on this particular date, was something else. Now, I’ve grown up around the farm, I’ve been involved in a lot of butchering and I’ve field dressed a deer, and I’m pretty sure that what was in that bowl, simmering in a tasty broth, is found among the parts that we generally left in the field. I want to say pancreas or gall bladder, but who really knows. Clearly, I had ordered poorly. The broth was good.
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Mother Nature Will Take it All Back Discovery Channel recently ran a program about what would happen if man ceased to exist, and concluded that Mother Nature would wipe all evidence of man off the planet in about 1000 years. In Uganda, it would take about six months. If you drop your pizza crust from the table, in five minutes an entire army of ants is already dismantling it and carrying it away. If some unfortunate critter fails to make it across the road, a pack of stray dogs is carrying it away within hours. If the City paves a road in December, it is back to dirt in late February. If your sidewalk gets dirty on Monday morning, it is sprouting some sort of plant – if not a tree – by Thursday afternoon. For the latent environmentalist in me, it is good to see that in a place as polluted and nasty as Kampala, Mother Nature is not willing to just lay over and die.
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I’m Not as Good of a Dad as I Wish I WasI always kind of felt bad for parents that are perpetually telling their children, “no.” You know what I’m talking about – “don’t touch that Billy, Sally stay away from the edge. No, Johnny, you can’t hit the dog, No, Don’t, Stop, I’m going to count to three….” With Rachel, I never really had to do that, and I often felt pretty good about myself as a parent. Pride cometh before the fall. With Rachel, Isaac and Levi, cooped up in someone else’s house with a yard filled with treacherous cliffs and strange bugs, I find myself saying “no” constantly. The worst part is that, the more I say “no,” the less my kids listen. I know this, and yet the number of “nos” that proceed from my lips seem to multiply daily. And if that doesn’t work, I add meaningless threats or a raised voice, which only serves to make me look stupid, to ensure that my kids have no respect for me whatsoever, and to absolutely guarantee that my kids won’t listen when I say “no” to something serious. Man, I suck at this.
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Shaggy’s Not That Great In ConcertThe other night Shaggy (the rapper, not the Scooby Doo sidekick) played Kampala. We happen to live a couple miles from the venue he was playing, and there are apparently no sound restrictions in Kampala. I never really wanted to hear Shaggy in concert, but now I have. He may as well have been playing in our living room. While the music wasn’t that good, the concert was entertaining. The most entertaining part was listening to Shaggy do all of the mindless flatteries of the audience that have become standard for every concert (you know what I mean, “I’ve played a lot of places on this tour, and I’ve got to tell you, nothing – mean nothing – beats Dayton, Ohio on a Tuesday). In the instant case, Shaggy came out a spirited version of "Angel", and during the bridge, he delighted the crowd with, “Last night I played a crowd in Batswana, and I told them that the party is in Kampala.” Now maybe the party is in Kampala, and maybe it isn’t. In any event, I couldn’t help thinking that what he really wanted to be yelling was, “What the #$$I**@! I sold out Madison Square Garden five years ago, and now I’m barely filling the stands in Kampala at 15 bucks a head.”
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I Miss My Friends and FamilyEvery time I have a new experience here in Uganda (and that is about every time I take a breath), I think to myself, “man do I wish ____ was here to see this,” or “_____ would love that.” Worse yet, every time I have an “African time” or a “Ugandan promise” experience, I think to myself, man I wish I was sitting down at Five Guys with _____, or at the basketball court with _______. I can’t tell you all how much Amy and I miss everyone back home. Thank you for your prayers. We really, reeeeaaaaaalllllyyy need them.